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A journal of my travels in NZ (South Island)...

 

South Island, Leg 1 6th to 17th November2004

Wellington to Kaikoura

So leaving Jason in Wellington the Harrison Clan headed for the ferry terminal and across to Picton in the South Island. Crossing the Cook Strait was a bit like entering a new country ... the Marlborough Sounds waterways, bays and coves were the first glimpse of things to come.

Kaikoura, hosted our first nights stay in the south island, famous for its marine life ... in particular whales. I'd wanted to get up close to one of these creatures since spotting them in Argentina. Unfortunately, it wasn't to be on this trip. Fog called off any attempts of making it out to the ocean and dad and I had to retreat to the camper van with our tales between our legs.

Kaikoura to The West Coast via Hanmer Springs

With the extra time we were able to cross the highway and Lewis Pass to the Wild West Coast via Hanmer Springs. With the beautiful weather we were treated to some incredible scenery ... and the colours were stunning ... yellows, turquoise blues and reds. Like nothing I've ever seen before.

Night number two was spent in Hokitika (Hoki for short), the major centre for Jade and the promise of some serious credit card damage on my mum's part!! With the weather on a downer again we headed the next morning to Shantytown (www.shantytown.co.nz) ... a recreated gold rush West Coast town from the 1880's. Great fun riding the steam locomotive and doing a spot of gold panning ... although we didn't make our millions.

Franz Joseph and Fox Glacier

South down the West Coast and on to the two famous glaciers of Franz Joseph and Fox. Our enthusiasm and excitement were squashed as the weather closed in once more. Although we caught a rather cloudy glimpse of Franz Joseph, there was nothing to be seen of Fox, and no chance of the flight and landing on the glacier in the ski-plane - what was to have been a highlight of the trip for both me and dad.

So after a night of pattering rain on the campervan roof it was on to Queenstown. Passing through the Haast region we were treated to some incredible scenery once again ... huge rainforests and wetlands, waterfalls, the wide Haast river, Mount Aspiring National Park - where the scenery changed again to snow capped mountains! I'm beginning to wonder if anyone could ever tire of such stunning views at every turn and bend in the road.

Before hitting Queenstown for a brief overnighter we called into Wanaka, a very pretty town with plenty going on. A definite stop off for when Jason and I pass through again. Dad even managed to entertain himself here for a couple of hours at the Fighter Pilots museum!

Te Anau Caves

Te Anau is set on the beautiful Lake Te Anau. New Zealand's 2nd biggest lake it was created by a huge glacier and is around 53km long and 10 km across, and at its deepest 417m!!

On the Western shores of the lake dad and I journeyed to the Glowworm Caves (a trip that couldn't be spoiled by the weather!). Only accessible by boat, the cave system was magical ... waterfalls, whirlpools, and a glowworm grotto. Unfortunately no photos for you, apparently the cameras upset the glow worms!

Milford Sound

The journey to Milford from Te Anau was the most beautiful journey I've ever made (and I've journied a few!). I really would struggle for the words. Just trust me ... it is the best. And the 2 hour cruise on Milford Sound is right up there with it too! The 22km long Fiord is dominated by the 1695m high Mitre Peak, which reflects into the water with a mirror effect. We were warned not to expect blue skies since Milford gets around 5.5m of rain every year! I guess we finally got lucky and were blessed with a beautiful day which just made the views even more spectacular.

We were able to appreciate the remoteness of the location when we tried to fill up the campervan with diesel. In Milford there is only an unmanned petrol pump which takes the local EFTOPS card and a diesel pump that is operated by the cruise companies! If you ever do this trip be forewarned and fill up before leaving TeAnau! Saves a lot of bother!

Queenstown

A long 5 hour drive back to Queenstown and another night over in the Kawarau Falls Park. Imagine waking up to views of Lake Wakatipu every morning. This is one place I could definitely settle if it wasn't for all the tourists! It's the adventure capital of the world. Name an adventure sport and you can do it here ... Luge, bungy, jetboating, white water rafting, river surfing, water sledging, canyoning, paragliding, parachuting, zorbing....

Funny enough I couldn't convince mum or dad to give any of these a go so will return with my adventure partner at a later date!!

Mount Cook

And as the sun finally shone we began our Anneke Rice challenge to make it to Mount Cook before the weather turned. And we made it and my dream (thanks to a generous early Christmas pressie from mum and dad) of flying and landing on a glacier in a ski plane was fulfilled! Pete our pilot provided a fantastic trip - getting right up close to the magnificent Mount Cook and so skilfully landing us on the Tasman Glacier. Nothing is ever going to come this close for me! (www.skiplanes.co.nz)

And as we were leaving Mount Cook a message from Jason in Kaikoura meant that we decided to spend the next day on a challenge to get to Kaikoura and see the whales too! Maybe all the "to do's" of New Zealand will be done after all.

Lake Tekapo

The Church of the Good Shepherd at Tekapo has sweeping views across a the stunning glacial turquoise lake with blue lupins and snow capped mountains as a backdrop. A real treat to visit the place where my friend Mari was married last year and to see her name in the register.

Kaikoura ... attempt number 2

Well, we made it. We saw our Sperm Whale. But only just. Ours was the last boat out of the harbour before the rest of the days trips were cancelled. And our captain cut the trip short and turned back immediately after we had seen the stunning creature diving. Rough seas the cause. And when I say rough I mean rough. Probably possible to count the number of non-pukers on one hand (and I was not one of them!). But all well worth it for this up close glimpse of a whale. (www.whalewatch.co.nz)

Christchurch

Our numbers back up to 4 it was on to Christchurch and the end of a month's journey for mum and dad. Needless to say a few tears were shed at the airport. So sad to see them go. And to return the campervan. So it's just Derby and Joan now in our Nissan Sunny for the second leg of the South Island!