Zoe Harrison Travel Web Site

Well, after 48hours of rain in Iguacu, Rio really has been close to heaven. Although it hasn't been perfect weather it was hot enough to dry us out and lift spirits.

After a recommendation from a traveller in Salta we checked into a short term let appartment on Av. Atlantica, with A/C, bathroom, living room, kitchen, TV and a bedroom overlooking Copacabana beach with the most wonderful views. We really fell on our feet with this one - and only 18 pounds a night!

Beach life

Copacabana lies between mountains and sea and has a character of all of its own which seems to have cast it's magic spell on me. So the weather wasn't always great but nothing was going to stop me donning the new bikini (thanks Ann and Sue) and hitting the beach. The waves were tremendous and the surfers and body borders made the most of it - I however, opted for a sun bed and an attendant who offered to fetch you anything you desired; coconut, beer, hot dog and even rub in your sun lotion for a small fee. Well worth it!!

The local girls spent hours making sure their bikini lines were in line with their tan lines, that their hair wasn't out of place and the shades were on straight. I admire them. By the time they were finished I have to admit they looked stunning. Absolute perfection. And the Brazilian boys weren't bad either.

The beach had a downside and turned into a less than carefree, friendly place after dark. We were unfortunate enough to witness an American guy being held at knife point for his wallet. Jason helped to save the day and they escaped with nothing and everyone was safe. (My hero!).

The beach barracas (open air bars) on the pavements were much safer and great for idling away the evenings and doing a bit of people watching. It seems that everyone and anybody either takes a power walk, cycles or jogs down the street at some time of the day or night.

Not too old to party in Rio

OK so I'm facing thirty in a week's time. This is no reason to give up the idea of clubbing. We combined a sight seeing visit to sugar loaf mountain with a live show and disco half way up at Morro da Urca (www.bondinho.com.br). We had been told that the show started at 10.00pm (late by anyones standards!) but as it was things didn't get going until 11.45pm! It was well organised for us oldies and there were huge bean bag beds and seats so at least we could get a cat nap when we wanted one. We left the party at about 2.00am - well we had to be up to go hang gliding in the morning.

Flying like a bird

Ever wanted to be able to fly? Hang gliding is the answer. After a very brief flight procedure practice (running the opposite way with my arm around my instructor Paulo) it was time for the real thing. A simple 1,2,3 and go was all it took to get me running off a ramp at 1,700 feet up Pedra Bonita (Pretty Rock) with nothing more than a harness and a set of wings!

Such a beautiful experience - you hardly notice the drop and it is so peaceful. We flew over Tijuca's national park, the ocean and I was skillfully landed on the sand (rather than in the sea) of Sao Conrado Pepino beach. Paulo, it seems, is a modest man and much aclaimed. Turns out he rubs shoulders (literally) with the stars and has been an instructor to Jamiroquai and George Michael!

Christ the Redeemer

No trip to Rio would be complete without a visit to Corcovado and the 38m high statue of Cristo Redentor (www.corcovado.com.br). At 710 metres the views of Rio were guaranteed to be magnificent. It was kind of spoilt a bit by loud Americans having their photos taken in similar poses to the statue - I guess they must have very high regard for themselves!

Vasco v's Botafogo

And, I was assured, no trip to Rio would be complete without a trip to the Maracana Stadium - one of the largest football stadiums in the world. So off we went to see Vasco v's Botafogo, both local teams. 4:0 to Vasco was the final score - a great result since we appeared to be surrounded by their fans.

Santa Teresa

Last full day in Rio and the weather didn't come through for a day on the beach. So, we took the metro accross town to Cinelandia and then the 100 year old tram over the Arcos da Lapa aqueduct to Santa Teresa. Now there are trams as we know it and then there is the tram to Santa Teresa (www.vivasanta.com.br). Apparently the coolest part of Rio with 'many colonial and 19th century buildings, set in narrow, curving tree lined streets' but a tram system that conjures up the image of a ghost train ride at Hull Fair. School was out for lunch so at every turn hoards of kids clambered onto the sides of the tram, hanging on for dear life and the chance of a free ride. After the hair raising experience we retreated for a beer and lunch at SobreNatural for some delicious crab pastries and local fish.

Well Rio has come to a sudden end, and I'm actually sad to be leaving but I'm sure I'll be back one day. Apparently Brazilians say 'God made the world in six days; the seventh day he devoted to Rio'. Nothing could be nearer the truth. It's everything anyone could ever want from a city - give me Rio over London any day.

Still, time to move on to Belem and the next adventure - cruising down the Amazon!

Belem 1st - 4th June

Belem, in the North of Brazil, sits on the Baia do Guajara at the mouth of the Amazon River. And it´s hot! Very hot!

It was great to meet up with Liana (who we met on our travels in Puerto Montt, Chile). Liana lives in Belem and works within conservation of the Amazon. She helped us out loads and booked a taxi from the airport, the hotel and the boat for our onward journey to Manaus. She also enlightened us with facts about the area (that it didn´t mention in the guide books!) and about the food. We went out for a meal for´local´food in a restaurant in the Estacao das Docas (restored warehouses) and wound up eating vegetables that have to be boiled for 7 days to remove toxins. Just imagine if you forgot which day you put it on to boil!?

From what we saw of Belem, it has a beautiful theatre - Teatro da Paz- and cathedral. But one of the highlights has to have been the market. In fact the whole town is one big market! Reminded me a lot of Poundland! The Ver-o-Peso (English - see the weight) market is one of the most varied and colourful markets I have ever seen - huge, unidentifiable fish, next to brightly coloured fruits and vegetables, Brazil nuts by the kilo, medicinal herbs and natural perfumes, manioc flours and grain, places for the fishermen to eat ... it completely overtakes your senses.

Incarceration on Onze de Maio (Belem to Manaus) 4th - 10th June

So the idea sounded romantic...5 days sailing up the Amazon River. Who wouldn´t jump at the chance? Air conditioned suite with private bathroom sounded so much more appealing than slumming it in hammock class.

In reality the ´suite´ was a cupboard with bunkbeds (and optional death stained mattresses), a vent with a wisp of air and a toilet with overhead shower. The food would have been great had they not used river water that contains evil little parasites. We resorted to dry crackers, tomato sauce and mineral water after a few days. After 6 days (yes, we were delayed by a day - mostly down to the loading and unloading of thousands of melons) of captivity, Jason´s Dengue fever, my cramps and diarrhoea you can bet we were ready to sail past the confluence of the Solimoes and Rio Negro and into Manaus. And only 8kg lighter between us!

The strange truth is though, that I wouldn´t have chosen to travel any other way. It has to have been the best chance to appreciate the sheer vastness of the Amazon River, and the isolation of it´s communities. Local children risked life and limb to attach their canoes to the boat - for a free ride and a chance to sell their wares. The sunsets were out of this world, and I could never get bored of the jungle forest scenery.

We made some great companions in ´hammock class´ from Ireland, the States and Denmark who helped me celebrate my 30th in style - with a bottle of bubbly, bottle of vodka and a few games of cards. It´s definitely one I won´t forget!

Manaus 10th - 12th & 15th June

After checking into the Palace Hotel the first stop was the pharmacy! Manaus (capital of Amazonas state) has really been a place to recouperate after the boat journey and put a bit of weight back on. We´ve had a couple of really nice meals out - one was to an all you can eat Brazilian BBQ where meat, sausage, fish are constantly being brought to your table. We also had a night out at the theatre - Teatro Amazonas - a birthday gift from Jason. Only the tickets turned out to be free!

Our convalescence was helped by some pampering too - a manicure and pedicaure is only two pound sixty. Even Jason had a pedicure. The nail polish really suited him.

Ariau Towers 12th - 15th June

Before we made the decision to go travelling I had this place eyed up! Ariau Towers (www.ariautowers.com.br), the only tree top hotel in the Amazon, has climbed the highlight chart for the trip so far. We enjoyed it so much that we stayed an extra night!

We did canoe trips, jungle trekking, piranha fishing, aligator spotting, a visit to a native village - and these were only the organised excursions. All over the hotel complex it was possible to feed the squirrel monkeys, macaws and parrots. We had a fantastic guide Rui (pronounced Hoy) and boatman Fabien (who stole my heart when he tried wrestling an aligator into the boat) who helped us see so much wildlife and taught us so much about the Amazonian environment, native beliefs and customs. We also met Peter and his children Peter (Jnr) and George, from New York who made the excursions even more exciting!

And I can´t leave this entry without mentioning how fantastic the food was! I´m back up a kilo already.

Well, onto La Paz, Bolivia tonight. Well in the morning really - we´ve got a 3.50am flight to contend with and the prospect of altitude sickness when we arrive (it´s the highest airport in the world at 4,058 m!).